Nestled in the shimmering waters of the Salish Sea, just a stone’s throw from the bustling town of Anacortes, Washington, lies an island that time seems to have gently passed by. If you were to shout “Whats up Guemes?” across the ferry terminal, the answer might be a peaceful sigh from the towering evergreens or the gentle lap of waves against a pebble beach. Guemes Island (pronounced “GWEH-mis”) is not a destination of grand resorts or vibrant nightlife. Instead, it is a sanctuary of quietude, a close-knit community, and a pristine natural landscape that offers a profound answer to the question of what it truly means to unwind.
This article delves into the heart of Guemes Island, exploring its unique character, its attractions, and the simple rhythms that define life on this hidden gem of the San Juan archipelago.
A Glimpse into Guemes Island’s History and Namesake
To understand “what’s up” on Guemes today, it helps to glance backward. The island’s name is a legacy of the Spanish exploration of the Pacific Northwest. In 1791, Spanish Officer Francisco de Eliza named the island “Isla de Güemes” in honor of Juan Vicente de Güemes, the Viceroy of New Spain. Before European arrival, the island was used by Coast Salish peoples for seasonal resource gathering.
Unlike some of its San Juan neighbors, Guemes never experienced significant commercial development or a population boom. It was primarily used for logging and limestone quarrying in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This lack of intensive development is key to its present-day character. The island was, and remains, a place of residences rather than resorts, with a deep-seated respect for the natural environment that sustains it.
The Guemes Gateway: A Ferry Ride into Another World
The journey to Guemes is an experience in itself and sets the tone for your visit. Departing from Anacortes, the Guemes Island Ferry, officially known as the Guemes, is a county-run vessel that is a world away from the large state ferries serving the other San Juan Islands. The ride is short—a mere five minutes—but it feels like a symbolic passage into a slower pace of life. You’ll share the small ferry with island residents picking up groceries, contractors with their trucks, and perhaps a few cyclists on a day trip. There are no advanced reservations; you simply drive on, pay your fare, and moments later, you’ve arrived.
What’s Up on Guemes: Exploring the Island’s Attractions
So, what is there to do once you arrive? The answer lies in embracing outdoor recreation and serene contemplation.
1. Hiking to the Summit of Guemes Mountain:
The crown jewel of the island’s park system is the 698-foot Guemes Mountain. Don’t let the modest elevation fool you; the hike to the top is a rewarding journey through a beautiful madrona and fir forest. The trail, managed by the San Juan County Land Bank, is a well-maintained 2.2-mile round trip. The real payoff is at the summit, where a panoramic vista unfolds. On a clear day, you are treated to breathtaking 360-degree views of the surrounding San Juan Islands, the Olympic Mountains to the southwest, Mount Baker to the east, and the Cascade Range to the southeast. It is the perfect spot for a picnic and is arguably one of the best viewpoints in the entire archipelago.
2. Circling the Island: The Guemes Island Road Loop
One of the best ways to see the island is by bicycle or car via the approximately 12-mile loop road that circumnavigates Guemes. This leisurely drive or ride takes you past a diverse cross-section of island life. You’ll pass modest homes tucked into the woods, small farms, and stunning waterfront properties. Along the way, you’ll have access to several small, public beach access points. These are not sandy swimming beaches, but rather rocky and pebbly shores perfect for beachcombing, skipping stones, and watching the endless parade of marine traffic—from massive container ships to graceful sailboats and playful seals.
3. A Stroll to Young’s Park:
Located on the west side of the island, Young’s Park is a beloved local spot. A short, flat trail leads through a coastal forest to a picturesque point overlooking Peavine Pass. It’s an ideal location for a peaceful walk, bird watching (bald eagles are a common sight), or simply sitting on a log and watching the sunset paint the sky in hues of orange and purple.
4. The Community Spirit:
Perhaps the most significant “attraction” on Guemes is its community. The island has a year-round population of just over 500 people, which swells during the summer months. There is a strong sense of neighborliness and self-reliance. The social hub of the island is the Guemes Island General Store, a classic island institution where you can grab a coffee, a sandwich, and the latest local news. The island also boasts a community church, a volunteer fire department, and a one-room schoolhouse that serves the island’s youngest children, embodying its small-town, family-oriented spirit.
The Etiquette of a Guemes Island Visit: Embracing the “Leave No Trace” Spirit
Visiting Guemes Island comes with an unspoken responsibility. This is not a commercial tourist destination; it is first and foremost a residential community. To ensure its charm is preserved, visitors should adhere to a few key principles:
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Respect Privacy: Do not trespass on private property. Stick to public roads, parks, and designated beach accesses.
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Pack It In, Pack It Out: There are limited public services. Be prepared to take any trash you generate back to the mainland with you.
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Drive Slowly and Carefully: The island roads are narrow, winding, and shared by pedestrians, cyclists, children, and wildlife.
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Support Local: The General Store is the primary commercial outlet. Supporting it helps maintain a vital service for the community.
By being a conscientious visitor, you contribute to the preservation of the very tranquility you came to experience.
Informational FAQs About Guemes Island
Q1: How do I get to Guemes Island?
A: You must take the Guemes Island Ferry from 6th Street in Anacortes, Washington. The ferry operates on a first-come, first-served basis. Schedules change seasonally, so it’s best to check the Skagit County Public Works website for current times and fares before your trip.
Q2: Are there restaurants or hotels on Guemes Island?
A: No, there are no traditional hotels, restaurants, or cafes. The Guemes Island General Store sells basic groceries, drinks, and pre-made sandwiches. Accommodation is limited to a handful of private vacation rentals. It is essential to plan your meals and lodging in advance.
Q3: Is Guemes Island a good destination for cycling?
A: Yes, it is a very popular destination for cyclists. The 12-mile loop road is a manageable and scenic ride. However, the roads are narrow and have no bike lanes, so cyclists must be cautious of vehicle traffic.
Q4: Can I camp on Guemes Island?
A: There is no public camping on Guemes Island. All accommodations are through private vacation rentals. Camping is not permitted in public parks or on public beaches.
Q5: What is the best time of year to visit?
A: Summer (July through September) offers the warmest and driest weather, ideal for hiking and biking. Spring and fall can be beautiful with fewer visitors, while winter is quiet, rainy, and offers a true sense of island life during the off-season.
Q6: Are pets allowed on the island and in the parks?
A: Pets are allowed on the ferry and in most public areas, but they must be kept on a leash, especially in Guemes Mountain Park and Young’s Park, to protect wildlife and respect other visitors.
